Part 1: “If you go, I’ll go with you.”
Seeking the limits of my soul once more, I flew to Southeast Asia for the first time.
For ten years I persistently postponed my lifelong dream of visiting Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Little did I know that I was waiting for the perfect travel mate to make it happen.
Shanaia and I booked the trip in the same week that she sent this message, “if you go, I’ll go with you.” Imagining Cambodia by the side of this enthusiastic1 foodie and avid learner2, made me feel confident about going to this mysterious country. How did Vietnam get added to the list? That girl is smooth!
Over one month, we planned our 10 days in Vietnam and Cambodia, making sure that sightseeing3, museums, exotic dishes and shopping were on the itinerary4. Four cities were on the list; Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. You could travel without a plan but doing research, checking out reviews and booking in advance will surely avoid unwanted surprises like hotel scams or overpaying.
I flew to Ho Chi Minh City on my own as Shanaia was already travelling around Asia. Since going to Machu Picchu in Peru, I hadn’t travelled to a country where I didn’t speak the language. I was eager5 to experience being out of my comfort zone and have my instincts and intuition6 lead the way.
Part 2: Festive Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.
On the night of my arrival, going through immigration wasn’t as slow or crowded as I had expected. It took a bit more than an hour and then I waited a little for my luggage. At around 10.30 pm, I walked out and both the heat and the large number of people felt like it was still daytime. I got into the airport transfer to the hotel, the driver didn’t seem chatty but honked at every motorist that came near him. Swarms7 of motorbikes fought for my attention left and right. Scooters carrying four passengers weren’t just a stereotype – that’s a Tuesday night in Ho Chi Minh City. I was surrounded by crowds wearing the country’s red and yellow-starred flags, while walls and garlands showed off the same colours and pride.
The one-hour transfer which turned into a surprise tour of the city, concluded at the hotel entrance with the driver’s only words to me, “C’est là”, meaning “It’s here” in French; so much for my chase of the unfamiliar!
I found out from the hotel attendant that the next day was the 30th of April, the 50th Reunification Day, Vietnam’s most important celebration of independence.
After the long awaited breakfast buffet the next morning, I walked out wearing a red T-shirt for the day. The hotel was in District 1 where some of the day’s festivities were happening. I stood on a street corner where a large screen displayed the parade, musicians and speeches from important government officials. It was exhilarating8 to watch everyone cheer for the air show. Shanaia arrived just in time for lunch at Ben Nghe Street Food. It was really hot when we walked over but we found a cool spot to relax. We finally caught up and ate together. We then visited Ho Chi Minh Museum full of extraordinary items and information about the war and Vietnamese art. Later on we went to Ben Thanh Market, which was definitely overpriced.
In the evening, we decided to get some dinner along Bui Vien Street — add this place to your bucket list, because I’ve never seen anything like it. It was like stepping into a live sugar rush, with neon lights, music and nonstop energy. A fluffy elephant convinced us to go to our first rooftop bar. We loved it – the band was amazing, we enjoyed pineapple fried rice and seafood, and the view was incredible. It was my first time seeing a drone sky show! Our next stop was artsy Hanoi, which took a whole day by plane as it kept getting delayed. Feel free to arrive 3 hours early to the airport.
Part 3: Cultural Hanoi, Vietnam.
The trip from the airport to the hotel wasn’t long but the driver dropped us off outside Hanoi Old Quarter. There we were, dragging9 our suitcases through the shared busy streets packed with honking scooters, locals and tourists, as well as multiple restaurants whose seated areas blocked the pavements. The longest and most stressful 5 minutes I’ve experienced in a long time. We began to doubt our sense of direction when the GPS led us past a sketchy10 pho place and into a dark alley, where our 3-star hotel was supposedly located. When we entered, a couple of young looking attendants welcomed us. Our room wasn’t the best but the service was excellent. We also enjoyed their breakfast buffet even if we had to leave our building and walk for a couple of minutes to another building!
After brekky, we went to Cafe Giang to try the iconic11 egg coffee. I didn’t know what to expect as foodie Shanaia wanted to know what it was all about. After walking through a narrow hallway, past the brouhaha of fellow coffee enthusiasts, we climbed some stairs that were lined with green vines. Upstairs was jammed12 with bean heads. We sat on really low wooden chairs, and Shanaia and I admired the paintings on the walls. I enjoyed a yummy egg cocoa which arrived incredibly fast and the place felt as cosy13 as a hobbit’s home. As you can imagine, it wasn’t long before we squeezed ourselves out to do some sightseeing.
It was such a cruisey14 walk to our next stop, the Temple of Literature – an ancient15 temple built in the year 1070. I was amazed and thankful that it survived the war and stood the test of time. The frequency16 of the temple is so high, having been used as a place of learning, meditation and rituals. I would gladly return to this place often for its tranquility and beauty.
In the afternoon, we set off to have a drink at Train Street. This place felt like a film set – people watching17 was just the best! There was a rooster, a lady cleaning shoes right on the tracks, and of course it was packed with people taking selfies. There were so many mini cafés to choose from and wait for the train. As a wise older cousin, I convinced Shanaia to sit upstairs to have our coconut water and cocktail. Ten minutes before the 3.30p.m. train, everybody rushed off the tracks and those who lingered foolishly were quickly yelled at. The sound of the train horn, the rush of air from the train’s speed and everybody’s excitement was mind-blowing. Get there – just once in your life.
Part 4: Cruising Halong Bay, Vietnam.
I would imagine the way to heaven to be just so; serene waters mirroring18 the sky, balanced by the sharp uneven beauty of all the small islands’ green pinnacles19. The keepers of Halong Bay, known as Black Kites, soared effortlessly through the air, their graceful flight seemed to slow time itself as we cruised below.
The place is just too poetic to describe right here and now. Shanaia and I also made a lovely friend in Halong Bay from England. We really enjoyed talking about travelling so later that evening, we all caught up at Cloud Nine – one of the most James Bond-like bars I’d ever been to!
Part 5: Siem Reap, Cambodia.
On Sunday we packed our suitcases to take a night flight to Siem Reap, the home city of Angkor Wat. We got some Cambodian Riel and a sim card as soon as we arrived at the airport. The driver was very kind, and I noticed that other drivers helped him get our suitcases in his car. The way to the hotel was remarkably quiet, there seemed to be less people, less buildings and a lot less light pollution. Tent-like shops were still open even if it was close to 9 o’clock. We were both tired but I really had to take this new place in.
As we sleepily got out of the car, our eyes widened at the hotel’s charming jungle-like entrance. We hadn’t seen anything yet – with cemented floors and heavy wooden doors, our room was minimalistic20. There was an adorable lounge and a kitchen, outside our spacious room was a balcony with a tub, and a view of the pool. We had the best sleep!
On our first day in the city, we visited the Angkor National Museum to learn about Siem Reap’s history. The museum visit proved valuable when we later visited the temples, as it helped us recognise the different architectural styles from various historical periods. It’s a stunning modern museum where you visit each room in a specific order, just like a treasure hunt. It’s definitely worth going to admire the irreplaceable Khmer artefacts21 that were described and dated.
Afterwards, we went to the Made in Cambodia market and I wished that I could buy something from each lovely artisan22! Everything was handmade and so well-crafted. I got a recycled backpack that I’ve dreamed of having for such a long time!
On a side note – Shanaia and I happily discovered a supermarket near our hotel that we bought so much from – it had everything we needed, from Aussie products, French products to fresh fruits – I couldn’t imagine a more perfect supermarket ! The heat of Southeast Asia was exhausting23, so in the afternoon we relaxed by the pool – The next day we would walk a lot around Angkor Wat.
We got up at around 3 am. to get ready as we would get picked up at 4 am. The silence in the morning with only a few birds tweeting, the reflection of the sky in the water surrounding the place, the soft sound of our shoes on the wooden bridge and in the dark, the engravings teased me.
At last – the warm glow of the sun lined the silhouette24 of the temple, I couldn’t help but smile, we were at Angkor Wat. It was quiet even if there was a crowd. I sat with our tour guide ‘King Kong’ for some time – he had Angkor Wat tattooed on his arm and was like a walking encyclopedia of Khmer culture. He rounded up our group to begin our journey through. King Kong described the stories engraved on the walls, some were about Hindu mythology25 and some engravings were about the Khmer. Such a rich culture and yet, many tried to erase their history during the war. I loved every minute of our tour – Shanaia and I even climbed to the top and enjoyed the calm of the place. I liked that this sacred site was only visited by monks and royals in the past.
The tour took us to a cosy place to have lunch and we got to know some of the other members of the tour. Later on we visited Ta Prohm, the temple where Tomb Raider was filmed. The tour guide insisted that we would visit the trees at this temple and not the engravings26 as they weren’t as well preserved. I couldn’t imagine how these temples were forgotten for so long and now admired – I loved the mystery. It made me wonder about all the other forgotten and hidden things that exist around the world. Every time something new about our past is discovered it raises more questions – it’s great!
At the hotel, we packed our suitcases and enjoyed our relaxing hotel for the last time. The next morning, we got a 5-hour bus to Phnom Penh. I truly wanted to see the country in a different way. Through the window, I saw rice fields, mango trees with mangoes in every second garden, rest areas with hammocks, and many farm animals living at people’s houses. I felt a kind of peace I hadn’t felt in a long time – just watching life be lived.
Part 6: Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
In Phnom Penh, our room was very spacious, with a view of a beautiful golden temple squeezed by dark and weathered27 buildings. Our hotel wasn’t far from the Tonle Sap River. This city was more crowded than Siem Reap and much busier – it reminded me of Vietnam. In the evening Shanaia and I had pizza for dinner at Pizza 4Ps. It was a beautiful sustainable restaurant with a view of the river. I wished we could sit outside but the aircon indoors was a better choice.
After my favourite breakfast buffet of the trip, we got a tuk tuk to Tuol Seng Museum, the genocide museum of Phnom Penh. I will tell you straight away that this isn’t a place for the faint of heart. It’s a chilling28 place filled with unfiltered artefacts of a dark time in Cambodia. My soul was so stirred that I almost hit a motorbike when I walked out. I am still haunted29 by everything I learnt about the Khmer Rouge at the museum. In hindsight, I wish I began my journey in Phnom Penh and then went to the peaceful Siem Reap. However, my appreciation of the Cambodian smile and my own sense of freedom have deepened. The next day, Shanaia and I both left Phnom Penh.
The spontaneity30 of each decision that led me there has only made me hungrier for more soulful journeys. I feel reconnected with my soul’s deep desire to experience the world. I’ve travelled through time — wandering the streets, exploring temples, and standing still in museums. Despite having access to endless information at the click of a button, we still know so little. But feeling the wind on my skin or watching the sunset in a new place — those are the moments that stay with me. I missed being an outsider, where I’m free from expectations, where I don’t have to be who people think I should be.
- Enthusiastic – having or showing intense and eager enjoyment, interest, or approval.
↩︎ - Avid learner – eager or excited to learn new things ↩︎
- Sightseeing – the activity of visiting places of interest in a particular location ↩︎
- Itinerary – a planned route or journey ↩︎
- Eager – excited or keen for something ↩︎
- Intuition – the ability to understand something instingtively, without the need for conscious reasoning ↩︎
- Swarms – a large dense group of flying insects ↩︎
- Exhilarating – making one feel very happy, animated, thrilling ↩︎
- Dragging (v. to drag) – Pull something along forcefully, with difficulty ↩︎
- Sketchy – not inspiring confidence or trust ↩︎
- Iconic – relating to or of the nature of an icon; regarded as a representative symbol or as worthy of veneration ↩︎
- Jammed – squeezed or packed tightly in a small space ↩︎
- Cosy – Giving a feeling of warm, comfort and relaxation ↩︎
- Cruisey – (Aussie) relaxing ↩︎
- Ancient – very old ↩︎
- Frequency – relating to vibrations ↩︎
- People watching – the action of spending time idly observing people come and go in a public area ↩︎
- Mirroring – reflecting ↩︎
- Pinnacles – the high, pointed peak of a rock ↩︎
- Minimalistic – a style that is about extreme simplicity or spareness ↩︎
- Artefacts – an object made by a human being, typically one of cultural or historical interest.
↩︎ - Artisan – a worker in a skilled trade, especially one that involves making things by hand.
↩︎ - Exhausting – making one feel very tired ↩︎
- Silhouette – the dark shape and outline of someone or something visible in low light against a brighter background ↩︎
- Mythology –
a collection of myths, especially one belonging to a particular religious or cultural tradition. ↩︎ - Engravings – a print made from an engraved plate, block, or other surface.
↩︎ - Weathered – worn by long exposure to the weather and its conditions like rain or the sun ↩︎
- Chilling – horrifying, extremely scary ↩︎
- Haunted – continuously tormented ↩︎
- Spontaneity – sudden, impulsive action ↩︎
My Life in English 
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